I have had an unusual number of requests for lawn care information this spring. Several people were asking about establishing turf with seed or sod on their property.
Establishing turf in late April or early May in our part of the world can be a little tricky. The soils have not very warm, and are often damp, making it difficult to prepare without causing compaction issues. On top of that, the first 80-degree days are looming, and our typical cool season turf grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and turf type tall fescue, prefer cool air to thrive.
August is the preferred time to seed in northern Indiana. The soils are warm, cooler days will soon be upon us, and most years, we get some rain in August or September to help the grass get established. Visit https://tinyurl.com/mr2hmd4v for more information on seeding a lawn. For sod advice, visit https://tinyurl.com/4c2mewzx.
A key issue is watering. One or two hot, dry days can wither new turf newly sprouted turf. New seedings and sod need to be kept damp for at least 60 days. That means watering several times a day to keep it damp, at least until the turf can be mowed a few times. Once you start mowing, back the frequency of the water off, so you are eventually only watering once a week if mother nature is not providing.
I am asked frequently about establishing turf in areas where grass used to grow, but it is now very thin and/or mossy. My first question is always how much shade is there in that spot?
A personal example: I planted 3 acres of trees on my property 28 years ago. At that time, the grass along the northern edge of the planting was lush and vibrant, but as the trees grew tall and cast their shade to the north, the turf has become thin and mossy. Trees grow and compete with turf for sunlight and water. The trees always win.
Turf grasses require, at the bare minimum, 6 or 7 hours of direct sunlight to outcompete the moss and weeds. Even the shade tolerant varieties need a lot of light. Seeding those shady areas will often result in a nice stand of grass for a few months, but it will quickly thin out and the weeds and moss will retake the area.
Rather than waste time and money on areas too shady for grass, find a good groundcover that is shade tolerant, or learn to live with the moss. The turf is not going to survive for long under shade. Some good suggestions for groundcovers in our climate are found at https://tinyurl.com/mr2f4bwe.
If you do decide to seed a lawn, remember one thing. Most lawn seed sold in our region contains annual ryegrass. The seed companies put annual ryegrass in the bag because it sprouts quickly, in as few as 10 days. That green peach fuzz gives people a nice warm feeling that things are going well.
Annual ryegrass, however, is an annual, not a perennial grass, so it is destined to die after a frost or hot weather. Bluegrass and fescues, on the other hand, might take 30-45 days to sprout. I know many people who have stopped watering too early, mistakenly thinking the annual ryegrass is their new lawn. Keep the area damp for at least 60 days to help the perennial grasses get established.
As far as seed is concerned, buy the best you can afford. Turf is a 40+ year commitment, so think of it as an investment, rather than an expense. There is a lot of cheap seed on the market, often ladened with annual ryegrass and some older turf varieties that are disease prone. Seed is not the place to cut corners.
Purdue has a great series of publication on lawn care at turf.purdue.edu/homeowner-publications/
By Jeff Burbrink, Purdue Extension LaGrange County
